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Round Head Aciera F4 Power Feed Motor Suddenly Not Running or AtLLING

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The power feed motor has functioned for the last 15 years. It periodically sounds like it is laboring particularly at the top of the Z feed but has always worked. There is a rise in the pitch of the motor sound. Tonight it cut out on the X axis. It has restarted after cooling off. I suspect a lubrication issue or gearing issue. Before digging in, I thought I'd ask to hear if anyone has dealt with a similar issue and what the solution was?

TIA,
David

Deckel device 60961120

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I just boughtthis Deckel FP2 with a co-grinding attachment and riser



This is one of the last machines made with a single motor both for the spindle and powerfeeds
(You know how I can tell just from the picture???)

Anyway
With it came a so called grinding indicator #60961120
I found some documentation mentioning this device
But I cannot figure out where or how to plug it in to the machine The big plug does not seem to fit in anything on the controle cabinet
Am I missing something
Anybody has some further documentation for this device

Peter



Deckel FP1 need collects

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Can someone tell me where I can get collects for my Deckel FP1? Thank you.
REA

Thread of the "driver blocks" on the ISO40 spindle Abene VHF3

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I just removed the "driver Blocks" on the ISO40 spindel of my Anene VHF 3.
I found out that 1 was mounted with an 1/4"(20/inch) bold, and the other with an M6 bold.
The M6 thread was ruined, and the 1/4" bold wend in without any problem.
Strange thing is that also both "driver blocks" are different. Sadly the 1/4" bold doesn't fit in the other block. And I asume these blocks are hardend, so drilling out the hole won't go.

Does anyone know what is original?
I think the 1/4" bold when I see how it goes into the hole. But on the other site I find an 1/4"bold strange on an sweedish machine.

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Deckel FP1 needs work

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My Deckel FP1 just came in from 8 years out side covered by a tarp. It has a good home now in a heated garage, in the process of taking it all apart as it is frozen up. Did get it cleaned up enough to start it and the heads do work, but the table will not move. Any tips as where to start and what to be careful of much appreciated. Also will be in the need of cutting tools and collects. Thank you. REA

FP1 spindle motor problem

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Hi guys,

I have a 1985 FP1 Activ which has a slight challenge with it's spindle motor.
When the spindle motor is engaged, it causes a short drop in power to the controller which resets the DRO/controller.
This was just happening if I engaged high speed, but now it is behaving the same way when starting at low speed too.

The machine is powered from a rotary phase converter, but I have no issues running other devices from the same RPC, so I don't believe it is to do with that.

My thinking is that there may be something wrong with the motor, so that it is drawing more current than expected when starting, but I am unsure where to start with my investigations.

I have rooted through the posts on the forum, without finding anything similar to this, so far.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Cheers,

Rob

Alexander FP1 (Deckel) Clone For Sale

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My Partner in England this machine machine for sale, the asking is $8000USD or OBO. I can probably get a very advantageous shipping rate based on my company discount.

If Richard says it is immaculate I believe him.

Motor is 415V 3~, 2-speed (8-pole/4-pole)

Comes with 15+ collets, collet chuck, quill adaptors (need to check details), horizontal arbor,
vertical head, apron mounted dividing head, bucket load of horizontal milling cutters, table
vice, chip tray, suds. Quill is MT4 with machine-specific draw-bar.

Overall condition is immaculate, almost spotless and negligible wear. The tilting, swiveling
table is unmarked, the slide ways so no sign of any wear or scoring, but I have not actually
'clocked' them and all axes 'float' very smoothly indeed.

Note for the uninformed: although it is a 'copy' of a Deckel FP1, the collets are not
interchangeable as they have a not-Deckel thread and most other details have been
anglicized so are equivalent, but not identical to the original German machine. LSS - plentiful
if expensive Deckel parts and tooling will not fit!

Total all-up weight as it stands aprox 1 ton / 1000kg

Alexander Master Toolmaker

Richard
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What is this?

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Does anyone know what this Deckel mill part is for or recognise it? It matches the paint on the FP1 punch milling attachment that came with my FP2. It's about 4 inches (100mm) on a side.




Fun with the Deckel punch milling attachment

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Hello

I thought I'd post some pics of my curentof my current "work"...
I'm pretty interested in tool grinding, and I've managed to put together a nice Deckel S11 and most of the useful accessories for that machine. Not bad, but that wasn't enough ! The machine lacked the hyper hype original vision system.

I had an Isoma coordinate microscope laying around so I decided to machine an bracket to mount it on the S11 workhead.

The general ideal looks like this :

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There are a lot of reasons for wanting a good vision system when grinding tools. Firstly, for better view of what you're doing, but also to measure angles. Slight mistakes in the positionning of the tool or the wheel can affect the result drastically and without a good sight at what's going on, it's not only easy to simply understand what went wrong... Beeing self taught (or still self-learning to be more precise), I know that the microscope will come in handy very often.

The Isoma microscope is rather heavy so I wanted the bracket to be as light as possible. Aluminium is light but there was no reason to keep unnecessary material anyway, so I decided to machine a pocket on the backside of the bracket.

That was the opportunity to use the x-y Deckel punch milling attachment I had bought a few years abot NOS for *** euros (some of you don't want to know the ridiculous price I paid for it but those who know me know it was not much ;))...

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Anyway, once mounted on the dividing head, you're adding five axis (!) to the little FP1 !

"Measure twice, cut once they say".... But with such a setup, the complete saying becomes "measure twice, make as much sketches as you can, cut once" !
I found the Deckel scribe tool to be a great help in order to check my calculations (and also take references for points I was to lazy or too dumb to find by calculation ! :rolleyes5:)

I'm not familiar with contouring, and I must say that the punch milling attachment was an invaluable accessory for that kind of work. With 80mm of travel in both x and y, it really helped me switching from one point to another to make the contouring operations that required a rotation of the dividing head. For roughing first, then for finishing.

It's only after the work was done, that I realized how many clamping / unclamping and manipulations of the part would have been required without it....

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Pull stud installation question

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I purchased an iCarbide CAT40 tool holder. It has ⅝"-11" thread on top (female) so I needed a pull stud to fit my Riken mill. I bought a pull stud from F. Singer, which has the Deckel buttress thread on top. When the pull stud arrived, I went to fit the 2 parts together and while the ⅝"-11" male thread on the pull stud will go in cleanly, the machined shoulder above the thread does not enter - it seems to be an interference fit. I emailed F. Singer about this, but they are slow to respond and so far I haven't received an answer. Does anyone know how these 2 parts are supposed to fit together? Should I crank the pull stud in and force the interference fit together? Or should I have some machining done to make the fit a slip fit? Either solution makes sense to me, but I figured that someone here would know the actual answer. Hopefully Singer will reply definitively within the next 24 hours.

Deckel or clone photo

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Hello all, I found this photo on the antique forum an was wondering if the machine in the foreground was a Deckel. It seemed an interesting choice being in a US government installation. Jim
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Aciera F4 auto feed stops

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I have been making good progress with the "basket case" F4.
I have the machine mostly together and running, and have made a few "test" cuts.

The person who disassembled the machine was pretty careful keeping parts and fasteners together, so most of the re-assembly has gone smoothly.

The only feed stops that are with the machine are the vertical feed ones. The rest have gone walk about.
Would someone be able to post a sketch of the X and Y stops with some basic dimensions, so I don't have to try to reinvent the wheel??

Also,
has anyone come up with a method of removing stuck sliding scales? The X scale on my machine is stuck and I'd rather not kludge it...

Thanks for any help you can offer

Peter

New Owner of a manual Maho MH600 !!

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Hi all...

Just wanted to type a quick note and introduce myself. Im Rick and in Southern California my whole life w/in 30 miles of where I was born. I have been fabricating, building, restoring and manufacturing motorcycles for the last 30 yrs. I fell in love with it as a kid and although I have done other professions- this is a habit I cant seem to break and am at it full time. In the process, I had to teach myself how to machine parts, weld, wrench, paint, bend tube, etc.. etc... honestly- I cant believe Im not worn out yet... I still learn every day and I think thats what keeps me going.

I just purchased a reasonable condition Maho MH600... it will be in the shop tomorrow morning and I could barely sleep last night... it seems to be a pretty rare bird here in the States. I have always wanted a more universal type platform after beating my Bridgeport into the ground over the years. After seeing this one pop up locally and hearing it run so quietly, feeling how velvet the axis' move and noticing how rigid and robust it seems for such a small unit- I had to pick it up. It may be with me until my last days.

Unfortunately its bare bones and didn't come w much- its even missing the overarm support which pains me- but maybe as time permits- I'll machine one by copying the mount from the vertical head... it just seemed that the base machine was worthy of investment.

I will try to post as much as I can; in my vintage motorcycle community - we all search for info and rely on each other desperately... I hope that my posts would encourage us to do the same and hopefully I can learn from you guys who are probably very much more experienced and learned than I.

Now the sexy part- Im going to try to post a pic for the very first time.... uggghhhh.....

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How do I post to the sticky wanted thread?

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I don't get the "new post" when I'm logged into PM and I go to the WANTED thread.

So how do I tell people I am looking for a working/non working deckel fp2,3,4,NC, with
the universal table?

Paul

Deckel FP3-50 Dialog 12, start up problems

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Hello,

I own a Deckel FP3-50 with Dialog 12 on it since a time now.
When I buy machine it stood still for a long time, and it wouldn't pass the self test by startup.

I replaced the 3 batteries for new ones and machine start up till display with x,y,z on it but doesn't work further.
All parameters where out but luckily I have them on disk and printed.

At that time I had not enough time to insert parameters and machine wasn't at his final place.
So it stand for about a half year. Now it moved to it's final place and I want to start it up again and insert parameters to get the machine working.

But now I have the following problem:

Machine start up and goes thru the self test, all ok.
After that screen stops at and only display "CMOS CHECKSUM OK" (See attached picture 1)

In the cabinet I see on the right side on display "F.2" It should count to F.1 and then to 0.0 in my opinion.
And on the card NPP 04A the LED Error blinks. I have checked this during start up and when machine is in self test the LED Run blinks but immediately after self test it goes to Error.

Does anyone has an idea what this problem could be?
An is it possible to insert parameters in this way? I think maybe parameters will cause the problem.

I hope someone can help me, thanks in advance.

Albert

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Question for you Deckel NC owners

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Hi All,

For the deckel NC owners out there what CAD/CAM do you use and is there
a good post for your machine?

Paul

Deckel FP4NC Footprint

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Hi all,

I have been looking at a FP4NC and I was wondering if the control
cabinet could be placed to the left side of the mill, with the cabinet
door opening to the left. Normally the cabinet is placed at the rear,
but this makes for a very deep footprint (136").

The cable conduit would be facing toward the rear of the machine.

Any thoughts or insights would be appreciated.

Stay safe all,

Paul

Tooling for a Deckel FP4NC

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Hello all,

Are you getting cabin fever yet?

Would it be possible to use NMTB40 tooling on a FP4NC
by replacing the hydraulic pull stud sustem with a NMTB
draw bar, or is there not enough from at the top for
the NMTB draw bar neck?

If there is not enough room at the top could I cut off
the NMTB neck and insert a deckel pull stud?

I have loads of NMTB40 tooling for my current Gorton mill.

Paul

Deckel FP4 manual mill / newbie with simple questions

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Hello all,

I used to read and attend other forum discussion earlier in my life. However, it soon became too much of a pain with cocky persons and other people just ruining a perfectly good thread. So, here we go again. This is my first post here and might be a long one. For those who want to skip to my questions, they are listed in the end of this post.

I've developed an interest in hobby machining during last few years and after having a heated shop built to our farm, I've had the chance to start acquiring machinery. Sure, these machines will help fix our farm equipment also and they won't be just sitting there. I come from automotive repairing industry and my tooling and knowledge has mostly been acquired from that side. Therefore, I recognize being a newbie and assume I know nothing about real machinist tools and work.

My first mill was a Schafner W12, a small Swiss made universal mill from the 50s and I still own it. I just love the nostalgic touches of it and will keep it for smaller work. But unfortunately that's what it is capable of...smaller work. Therefore, I just bought a Deckel FP4 manual mill from a Internet auction(!)... without seeing it. I know I know, that's not the way to go. Where I live, these gems just don't pop up often, so I had to take a chance. It's from 1978, so it has seen some miles. I bought it from a machine shop which decided to clean up their facilities and they still have one Deckel for odd jobs.

What I thought as being a well serviced machine by responsible users turned out to be basically a machine with many signs of wear and damage. Now, I don't know if my expectations are too high for a machine older than I am but my other mill from the 50s is still very accurate. This Deckel had basically no way wipers, since every one of them is worn beyond service limit. The spindle has been repaired, apparently due to someone crashing the table in Z direction, since the intermediate piece (between ram and spindle) has been welded in few places. The housing cover at the rear of the machine has also been butt welded together from two pieces. Few knobs are missing or repaired by using a bolt etc. I haven't done any work yet but tested the machine by running it through its speeds and feeds. Everything seems to work fine and no disturbing noises from the spindle.

Since the wipers were missing I decided to check the gib adjustments. X and Y seems to be ok and has plenty of adjustment left but the Z axis was a disappointment. The adjustment is more or less bottomed out. There's maybe 2 mm (0.08") left to tighten the gib and I'm positive that in my usage this will last a long time. However, I haven't tested the Z axis play now and in general the accuracy of the machine, so I'm not sure yet if this qualifies as a machine to last my lifetime. I hope I can still remedy the years of neglect. In theory, what could you do to repair the Z ways? Turcite? Larger gib and have the ways grinded?

Questions:

1 The Z axis feels quite heavy to manually move in upwards direction (full travel and not only in both ends). My other mill has a table which you can remove and lift by one person, so I might be asking for too much, but should you be able to move it effortlessly the full travel without having to pause somewhere between to shake your arm or shoulder muscles? Maybe the gib is adjusted too tight now or is the machine intended to be moved only with power feed? How would I check for correct adjustment in this machine?

2 How are you supposed to use the electric oil pump? Keep it on for several seconds or just a short burst enough to hear it build up pressure?

3 Electric cabinet has three contactors with timers. What are these used for? (I don't have electric diagrams)

4 On user side the control panel has buttons starting from left: Stop button, Start button, an unknown rotary switch and the coolant switch. What should the unknown third switch do? I hear a contactor or something from the other side of the machine but nothing really changes. No symbols or texts are visible around the switch,

5 Written in the manufacturer's plate, this is a FP4 model from 1978. How long did Deckel make before and after this year similar FP4 mills? Are the NC versions basically the same base machine with just added automation?

6 What are e.g. FP4A or FP4M models? Is this a FP4M (as in (M)anual)? Franz Singer Gmbh identifies e.g. way wipers with model designation FP4 2700 where I assume the number has to do with machine serial number range? I'm really having trouble identifying differences between models and which parts are therefore interchangeable. Reason for my question is, let's say I want to buy a high speed spindle or horisontal support from Ebay. Is it reasonable to assume I might get a part which doesn't fit my machine, even if it's for a FP4?

7 Is the X axis nut adjustable? There's quite much play in the handwheel right now. If so, how is this procedure done?

8 Everyone by now thinks I should get the manual and parts diagrams for this machine but due to reasons mentioned before, I'm not sure if I would get the right one. I have one manual in german but there are some differences already with this machine and its not that thorough. Could this Deckel FP4, FP4M Operation Manual | store.lathes.co.uk be the correct one? Are there manuals available for service personnel (with more detailed repair procedures)?


Thanks in advance!
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Deckel FP1 for sale locally, source for info?

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Did a search, but couldn't find a good thread for general info.

There is an FP1 for sale nearby, turned up in a CL search.

Deckel FP1 milling machine - barter - trade swap

Never heard of them...but some quick google-fu indicates they were toolroom quality machines.

Looks to be on the small side, but be heavy for it's size.

Obviously not a typical knee mill (I don't see a quill?). Aside from (I'm assuming)being a quality German machine back in the day (how far back??), what are it's advantages and disadvantages when compared to a BP or clone?

$4K seems quite pricey, but again I have no clue as to what market is for these...parts availability? Proprietary collets?

I'm looking for another "smallish" mill, should I even consider this one?
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