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Nice German tool cabinet and tools - Gedore - Heard of them ? (pix)

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Gedore Tools USA provides tools with optimum material properties, precise manufacture, perfect ergonomics, enhanced safety and long life.

Turns out they have a small distribution center near me (near Charleston, SC) so I bought the below...impressive, except the the caliper, which is the old fashioned type with no dial....otherwise seems top notch. Super nice cabinet and each tool nests perfectly in laser cut foam.

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I didn't actually need most of these tools...i mostly wanted the cart from my Optima drill sharpener. Each drawer secures itself....pull up on the drawer lip to open. There is a turn knob to lock all drawers if need be.

They also offer sets like this where each tool has it's own identity chip embedded in it..... helps in finding misplaced tools and inhibits theft.

Milacron
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Long reach head again

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Read some Posts about long reach head so i think Someone can help me out.

Picked up my long reach head and table today of my te be delivered fp2.

One nut of the swiveling head was loose, so i removed all bolts and now am trying to put it together again.

Can only get two of four in now.
Is there a trick to Getting at the nuts, without removing the aluminium plug?

Nothing broken by the way, head is rebuild and repainted by deckel.
Like the rest of the machine.
Will post pictures soon.

Greetings,

Peter

Added some pics




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best way to remove ISO30 etc tool holder

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I am getting my new to me Schaublin 13 setup, it looks great but I can't find a gentle way to get the vertical head tool holder or the horizontal drive gear (both ISO 30 as far as I can tell) to release from their bores. Is there some trick or something I should know as my searches have not been fruitful.

I think they have been in there a long time and although there is no rust maybe there is dried oil. I have tried what I think of as the normal procedure of backing out the draw-bar a bit and hitting it with a soft hammer with no progress and don't want to do anything that will cause damage. The draw bars are perfect with ground guide surfaces etc and no one has used a metal hammer on these before so there must be a better way. Should I make some sort of fixture to push the holder out with the draw-bar, or just not worry about it and use a real hammer with some wood etc to protect things and figure once everything is out and re-oiled it will work as designed.

Thanks

Luke

Deckel mill sheet metal chip pan extension wanted.... would a new one from Singer

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cost a fortune to ship to the USA even though it wouldn't weigh much ? (due to physical dimensions and maybe the need of a full crate)

Ideally the type that fit the bottom for an FP2 or 3...but I would consider the type that mount to the X slde (like at link very bottom of this post) and even an FP1 bottom type version would work if used and cheap enough.

email me at procyon@hargray.com if you have one to sell.

-----------------------------------------------------

Ironically I have a sheet metal guy in town that can make one for amazingly low dollar, and did a great job on the one he did... but he has to have an already existing one to go by...which I had then, but not now... if only I had had the foresight to have him make two of them !

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...light=chip+pan

Schaublin 13 - oil leak or normal?

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Greets all.. this is curiosity more than anything else, but would be great to know if
something is a foot.. or amiss, even.

First thing in the AM I always find fresh oil on the floor directly beneath the two
X axis handwheels on my S13.

I'm pretty sure this is the oil I pumped through the day before making its way out overnight.

Am wondering if this is perfectly normal or if I have a blown seal/tube/fitting somewhere
and should start digging.

The oil on the floor is a minor nuisance (cosmetic really), but I got to wondering if
perhaps oil wasn't making it all the way to where it needed to be.

Thanks.

Schaublin 13 feed mechanism noise?

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Hi all, I hooked up power to my Schaublin 13 today. It is still sitting on the pallet awaiting a shop crane but for now I can start to figuring things out and get the DRO ordered and installed etc. It runs as expected other than the rapid peddle not doing anything. I will check out the wiring and go from there.

The question about feeds is that when I put it into the higher set of feeds it is a bit noisy and maybe a bit "loose" sounding if that makes sense. I will post a video tomorrow if anyone is interested. Not knowing what is normal what if anything should be of concern? The rest of the machine is just so smooth and quiet this is a bit incongruous. Is the gearbox adjustable or perhaps the oil is low?

thanks

Luke

Deckel pull stud

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Hi everyone!

I'm working on a Deckel FP50CC/T with my pal Vitran (he's been posting). It's been a work in progress to say the least but all good :)

Any ideas where I can find this pull stud? Looks like it has a pin for the ATC (?). I'm a little confused about the through hole on the wrench hex. Local supplier isn't sure about it either. I'm guessing it's for coolant ... really not sure. I'm assuming the machine has through spindle coolant but not sure about that either. Any insight would be extremely helpful.

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Side note, I found an awesome thread on converting SK40 holder to CAT for those interested:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...ersion-220395/

Thanks.
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My FP2 arrived !

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Finally, my Deckel has arrived.
Well, last wednesday it did.
Put it more or less on it's spot now and am busy cleaning it a little bit, although it was pretty clean when it came to me.









Machine is in great shape, except for the y bellows wich were tore up, i took them of and ordered a new one from Singer, along with machine feet to put it on.

Only thing i really "need" is a dividing head now.
Of course i want every attachment and accessory to fill my cabinets, but stuff isn't cheap.


Question:

Manual says at least 700mm from base to wall, i've got less now.
Anybody with the long reach head can measure y axis all the way back and head all the way back how much space would really be needed?

Also what type of lampcover goes on the electrics cabinet.

Greetings,

Peter


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Deckel FP3A vertical head lubrication

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ID:	169697Good day all.

I have being scanning the web and forums regrading the correct lubrication for my 1980 deckel FP3A. When I stripped the head, it was full of grease, yet the manual, and many on this forum says it must be oil. When I cleaned al the grease out, with the intention of putting some oil in it, I was more confused when ALL the oil had run out throught the slotted groove in the spindle/quill. Surely oiling it weekly and having the bevel gears just "wetted" with oil and having it all spun off on start-up doesn't feel right. If the gears aren't submersed, how do they stay lubed, and how does the gears dissapate the heat generated? I really can't "learn the hard way" and sacrifice a set of bevel gears. I can also see that the design and channels will only work with oil, as grease just won't flow through all the channels and bearings. My concern is just the bevel gears. Is there anyone that has a concrete answer to this issue? Is there a rebuild or maintenance manual that will shed more light on this? I havent been able to get any clear answers yet. Please see attached head in question and the leaking location.

Thanks all and hope to resolve my issue.
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Found me self a Deckel FP4nc! Please help identify :)

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Hello peeps,
Long time reader and Deckel seeker here.
Finally found a machine thats been collecting dust in a forgotten factory storage unit. Seller says its not functional as there is an electrical issue with it. Sold as seen.
However I'm being put off by the controller as I couldn't find another FP4nc with a matching controller or even identify this one.

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Ideally I would like to restore it back to its glory and use it in DNC mode - if available.

Any ideas on what that could be?

Thanks!
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Anyone here got a last generation FP3 manual in English ? I have one in German

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I could trade if it matters. The manual I have is about 1980 vintage and therefore has info on the TNC111 rather than the 113 DRO. A last generation FP2 manual would do if no FP3 is to be found, as they were the same machine except for the travels.

I've got the parts book and electrical schematics, just not the operations manual in English.

procyon@hargray.com

1980 Deckel FP3, power feed seems "weak" in Z up

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I forget the DC vari drive feedrate scale numbers, but for Z screw to start turning to move the table up, the vari knob on the panel needs to be at least halfway speed. Been a while since I'd had a late DC drive Deckel but was thinking even near the slowest feed rate that Z should still move up. Axis clamp is loose....so what is more likely....

1. Z ways need lube ?

2. Z gibs too tight ?

3. DC power feed got "weak" somehow ? Any "torque" adjustments to that drive possible ? Beyond the halfway point Z will more up same speed as it moves down...and the rapid works fine as well. But below half feedrate Z just sits there in "up" mode. Machine works perfectly otherwise.

Re 1 &2, I have yet to install the Z handwheel to see how it feels turning the screw by hand. I have yet to install that handwheel as I must first relocate the electrical box from the pallet both pieces came mounted to, to make room for it. But seeing as it turns fine at faster speeds and rapid, I'm inclined to think something up with the DC drive. Any ideas ?

Fp4ma Homing issue

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Hi,
The fp4ma I run at work is acting up again. When I go to home any axis its of by .0025 to .0030" and will then throw an alarm 16,17 or 18. Jogging in the negative but not the positive direction in any axis will do the same thing. We ran the servo drift tuning procedure but couldn't get the values under 10 micron on all axis. The Lag values where quite a bit higher and changed depending on which direction we jogged. Both adjustment pots are out of travel and the problem is still present. One thing that confuses me is that y and z share a servo yet have different values on the screen when tuning. Could this be a card or chip problem and not something fixable by drift tuning? I left a message with Don Sentner but would like to learn more about the problem before I speak with him

Thanks, Adam

Deckel TC rotary table infos needed

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oops, of course I meant "NC" rotary table

A friend of mine just asked me if I could provide some informations about a Deckel NC table.

He works at an Heidenhain representative and is asked to find a solution to replace the rotary encoder of the table of a Deckel FP5CC;
The original encoder is toasted and the model is obsolete (HH ERO721).
I know that there are some exchange services available but I don't know if this is what they are interested in.

What he asked me is if it was possible to find a drawing of that table, that would allow him to figure out how to fit a new encoder of the current range.

So I thought I'd give it a try here...
Loong shot, but I must admit I don't have many other options :D

Below is a pic of the beast (I don't have the precise model).
Does anyone have a manual with drawing of the internals ?

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Schaublin 13 HS Heads - with ISO30 taper?

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Greets all. Question about the high speed heads that (were) available for the S13.
According to the catalogue, it looks like 5-6 head styles were available.

Am wondering if anyone knows if any one of these heads results in an ISO30 taper
at the business end, or if they all take collets in the quill.

Thanks!

FP1 headroom

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Hi to all,

well, I don't have an FP1, only a ALG100 copy and have been struggling for headroom (yes, I have the swivel table...).

This is how it is with the table at its lowest:


and this is my crappy old mini mill:


Of course this cannot be tolerated, I have to do something about it.

First, I was wondering how all of you guys are coping with the limited headroom issue, and I checked some FP1 pics online only to find they seem considerably more spacey than my mill.

So, please, could somebody do me the favor to get a scale and measure FP1 MT4 spindle to swivel table?

It won't change anything on my mill, but it may make me feel better, or, most probably, make me start planning how to upgrade on this matter.

Thanks,
Thanos

1964 TOS FN25 restoration project

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Hello guys,

My name is Jens, 21 years old and living in The Netherlands. In December 2015 i've bought an TOS FN25 milling machine ''with some work''.

The plan is to restore and repair the machine completely, with a brand new machine in top condition as a end result. A Missiseipi.com or Ruemema.de restoration is far above my current capabilities, but i hope to have in the end a good working solid machine.


This machine is bought by a formal farmer, and has been standing still for a few years now. Everything is still complete, but the bearing holder of the X- axis trapezodial thread has been broken apart, and has to be made.

Some pictures of the machine, and during the project:
IMG_1302 by Jens Orie, on Flickr


IMG_1311 by Jens Orie, on Flickr

DSC_8262 by Jens Orie, on Flickr
Moving the machine into his new shed :)


DSC_8272 by Jens Orie, on Flickr

IMG_1976 by Jens Orie, on Flickr

IMG_1375 by Jens Orie, on Flickr
During the project i had to make several tools to remove some parts. With this tool i can rotate the trapezodial axis of the X-axis. To reduce torsion (over 1000mm) and prevent for damages, this tool can be shoven over the axis and be locked using the keyway.

FullSizeRender by Jens Orie, on Flickr


IMG_1460 by Jens Orie, on Flickr
Using a heavy tripod i could lift the machine, and place it on two steel beams, so it can be movable.

IMG_1572 by Jens Orie, on Flickr
Removing the electric motor.

IMG_1475 by Jens Orie, on Flickr
Some parts needs to be replaced. (the end of the X axis trapezodial.)

IMG_1498 by Jens Orie, on Flickr
As new :)

IMG_1642 by Jens Orie, on Flickr

IMG_2073 by Jens Orie, on Flickr
Sanding sanding sanding...:nutter:

IMG_2294 by Jens Orie, on Flickr
Tomorrow i will paint the primer on most of the parts. The chosen color will be RAL6011.


If there are more people with a TOS milling machine (FN 20,22,25 etc) Let me know! It is always nice to see the same machines from other users.

More information can be found on my website (Dutch) www.Jensorie.nl or the Flickr album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/142308...h/26655130696/

And a German manual of these machines, can be downloaded for free over here:
1: https://mega.nz/#!iM9y1SgI!c7ZToSTsd...f3n3VjyW01XOWM
2: https://mega.nz/#!3UVCiJBI!09WfFFxMa...3uBYR4zaSMbO_c


Regards,

Jens

Deckel boy`s lucky day!

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Hi All,

Despite rumours to the contrary FP1 owners that should have forked out on an FP2 do sometimes have good luck.

Recently I attended an auction at my friendly machine tool dealers premises at Ski near Oslo and bid on some shelving, winning several lots at 50 NOK a time.
A few days later, I had to go and dismantle some of it so that I could transport it to my workshop. What a filthy and time consuming job it was as the shelves had been screwed together using countersunk screws which were almost impossible to access and the shelves were covered in a layer of oil and dust.

Then I was offered a range of unsold shelving much larger than my original purchase free of charge but this also had to be dismantled and taken away.

Then I was shown a small table that had some newly found tools on it that had not been offered at the auction. there was a set of four collets in a wooden box which upon closer examination were 4mt and had the Deckel buttress thread for the drawbar as seen in the enclosed photos. The make is "Franken" and when I had cleaned off the label I saw that they were intended for the FP1. Collet sizes are: 6, 10, 12 and 16 mm.

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There was a large box of milling cutters, a Nisshin Sangyo centering gauge, a Mahr lever type dial indicator an unusual type of precision magnetic vice of unknown origin and an unusual drill like boring bar with a radially adjustable tool marked 22MM.

They were all offered to me at a bulk purchase price of 500 NOK (about 40 GBP) which I accepted without bothering to hagle.

Of course there was an element of risk involved which was reflected in the price but when I got the items back to the workshop they all worked as they should, so this was my lucky day.

I`m assuming that this type of deckel collet is for holding cutters?

Alan
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Deckel FP4MA in practice

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Hello to all.

I am new in this forum, but I reading it many years.

In a week or two I get to my home a universal milling machine Deckel FP4MA with Contour 2 controller. I read all post in search, but nobody have write what is possible to make in practice with cycle programming (not with CAM and data transfering program).

Is there option to mill a dowel slot in some shaft?
Is cycle could be make for two tools, one roug miller and one fine mill?

Please someone if have this machine give me some advice.

I need machine for not complicated parts for maintenance :)

Is there any manual for programing Contour 2 in English witch is possible to buy?

Best regards to all, and thanks for help, and sory for bad english :nutter:

Schaublin 13 fixed table alignment

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Trying to cut something real today for the first time and I noticed the y axis isn't as parallel to the table as it should be (0.025mm in 100mm of travel) that is tilting up. Adding a heavy vise etc doesn't change much.The ways are tight and not worn as far as I know. The measurement was after removing the table and carefully cleaning both sides before reassembling. the slope was actually slightly less but the other way before I cleaned it. I haven't found the spec but 0.005mm in 150mm would seem right. The top is good and moving my ground blocks over it show less that a micron on my Mitutoyo indicator so I think the slope is real. I haven't found a way to check the vertical mounting plate/table yet. Also the X and Z axis positions don't change anything. It is possible that a tiny chip got in between the table and the vertical plate again.

So does anyone have any suggestions? I really don't want to shim it. If I had a larger surface plate I could check the table with high spot blue but mine is only 400mm long. Still I suppose that would be enough to show a burr around a hole etc although maneuvering the table to the plate is a bit daunting.

Thanks
Luke
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