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1964 FP2 horizontal spindle adjustment

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Dear all hi,

allow me to present you with my problem and ask for the forum's assistance. I am sure the problem I am facing is, most probably, trivial, but bear with me and provide your feedback if possible.

A couple of weeks ago I noticed an enormous axial play at my FP2's (500 mm X version), around 0.2 mm. I can't tell if this was here since I got the machine (1.5 years ago), or whether I induced it when I opened the spindle for the Kluber treatment, or whether it showed up at some point. I hadn't used the horizontal spindle much, and only for boring/drilling, that's why I hadn't noticed the play before.

I checked my manual and I was happy to find that axial play is adjusted via a threaded ring, no need to grind spacers etc (there was a relevant mention in a similar thread here, but I can't relate to that I think). My problem is that I can't seem to be able to ajust it, no matter what I do. Here is a magnified picture of my manual:



To my understanding, we have a spacer C held captive on the spindle, sandwiched between the spindle shoulder (at one side) and spacer F, inner race of the top roller bearing and the nut 9 (at the other side of the spacer-collar C). So, since collar C is fixed on the spindle, we have quill shoulder A and thrust bearing B that hold the spindle from exiting the quill, taking axial play in the outwards direction. And then there is the set consisting of thurst bearing D, roller bearing outer race E and threaded ring 6 that push the collar towards the spindle nose and takes up all axial play.

My problem is that, no matter how tight I get the threaded ring 6, I can't get the axial play to get any smaller. Resting the spindle on it's nose I can lift the quill up and it does rise up. So, it's like the threaded ring and the parts it is pushing cannot reach the collar C to push it towards the spindle nose. But I can't see anything interfering there to cause that. Has anyone faced something similar or has any idea what might be the problem here?

Here is also a scan of the full page of the manual:



Last, I would like to ask whether my understanding is correct: in order to set the thurst bearing properly, spindle nose should have a bit of a clearance from the quill, right? Something like this:



Thanks in advance for any assistance guys. I know it's no rocket science, but I am at a mental block here currently.

BR,
Thanos

Heidenhain Positip Memory

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Could anyone using a Heidenhain Positip 850, 855 or 880 comment on how much memory they have and how many programs you can store? Heidenhain specs only list that you can have 9999 blocks in a program.

Would also like to hear from anyone who could compare the differences between the models in daily usage (am aware of the major technical differences), and if you find the ability to write and run programs usefull for prototype work and small production runs.

Deckel GK21 remove spindle from roll attachment

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Hi all- I'm a new GK21 owner and I'm trying to get my machine set up. I can't tell how I'm supposed to remove the spindle from the roll engraving attachment. It was in position when I bought the machine, and it appears that the pulley has to come off to free it, but I don't want to start cranking on things and break something expensive. I don't see in the manual anywhere how to set up the roll engraver, so that's no help (it came with the newer, boxier style manual while my machine is the older version). Any help?

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FP-1 X-Axis Nut Question

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Hey guys, hopefully this will be a quick and easy one. I'm replacing the X axis nut on my FP-1. I just got the new part from Singer and it's not clear to me what the purpose of the small groove going half the length of the nut is for. It seems like something that should interface with a key, but removing the old nut, no key or alignment dog is there. It seems strange that they'd take the time to cut that groove for no reason. Am I missing something?

Anyhow, just wondering what, if any, purpose that groove has? Thanks very much, as always for your help!

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FP2 First Gen possible gearbox selector issue

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A little background :

-Former Northern Electric ( Nortel ) Ottawa R&D dept. machine
1967 low to medium hours, great shape
-We installed 2010 and all oils-grease-coolants were changed
-Machine ran an average of 2 full days a week at first and now almost daily 8-10 hours shifts, religiously oiled every morning at start up.
-Staff is careful with feed speed changes machine off and making sure plunger is set with lower dial at 6 o'clock on both handles.

Earlier this week my apprentice was running the mill with Z power feed upwards and heard a momentary gear grinding noise. Happened twice so second time he went and got my senior machinist that has extensive experience on it and had him check everything over. Nothing unusual and all dials were well set.

Then maybe a half hour later we heard this loud horrible heart wrenching gearbox grinding noise that jolted me upright and raised my pulse. Apprentice shut off power feed and hit emergency stop within 3 to 4 seconds, quick thinking !

Went back there with visions of machine apart for months on end sourcing parts and having to purchase another one at now inflated prices with unfavourable US/ Can exchange rates..

-Checked dials, all set as should be.
-Manually spun back handle all ok
-Hit start-stop same horrible crunching sound from centre or base of machine
-Took machine out of preset feed and dialed in another. Seemed a little notchy until I spun a complete revolution or two going through all the feeds. Did same with spindle speed, nothing unusual there.
-Calmed down a bit, triple checked everything, asked my guys a few questions, nothing out of place except a feed change earlier from one setting directly to the next without going though a full revolution to exercise machine like I like to do.
( at this point I'm suspecting sloppiness - backlash in the feed dial mechanism )
-Came over here to read up.
-Gearbox oil levels standing still : feedbox upper window mark ( clear ) and speed box half window ( slightly dirty tan colour ) Last changed in 2011.. ( kicking myself for not changing sooner, work for that mill crept up on us and now were're already in 2019..)
-drained both looking for gear teeth or metal shavings, nothing.
-filled with clean diesel fuel and drained both looking for gear teeth or metal shavings, nothing.
-filled with clean left over pantograph light spindle oil and drained both looking for gear teeth or metal shavings, nothing.
-filled to upper window limit with Shell Tellus 46
-hit start-stop all good and oil movement from slinging oil, level dips down to halfway mark on upper, upper 2/3 mark on lower. Upper oil still has a little tan colour maybe just the window but will change out again later.
cleaned, oiled, greased, double checked everything machine runs great and seems a little quieter.
-let it run for an hour or so as I put everything away and cleaned up after myself. No heat, all good. Multiple feed / speed changes all good as new.

This points to either a bearing going out, the rapid feed mechanism acting up but most likely slipping out of gear due to a feed-speed selector dial issue.

I'm confident in running the machine as is until I can get the operators side panel off and clean - inspect the dials and look into the gearbox directly. I did run a mini camera into the oil fill and drain holes and the teeth appeared normal for a 50 yo machine.

I'll try and find a way to post a short iPhone vid of it running later.

Long Reach work

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So i have posted before regarding the use of "Sandvik Capto" tooling in various situations. Thought some might enjoy seeing an example of boring work having a long reach.

Machine is Deckel FP4NC. Early "Camel Back" vertical head setup. Machine is set to run horizontal. Largely because the part calls out to be run that way , but also because i believe that the
machine is most stable and rigid working horizontal....

Here is the job requirement:
Semi finished casting. Fits as the gearbox cover on a Type35 GP Bugatti. The cover is made with an extension that cradles the starter motor.
Starter has a round body. !00 mm that needs to seat on that extension.

Seat ares must be machined to match the starter body and at the correct height to set the starter pinion relative to the engine flywheel and ring gear....

Overall view of the setup:
Cover gasket face clamped to 2-4-6 blocks on machine table. Jacks and additional clamps to secure the extension of the casting.
Overall reach of "Capto" setup including quill extension: 428mm (16.85")





Surface of the starter seat easily seen here...





Opposite side view.....


End tool is single point "precision " boring head. Has removable cartridges that can carry different styles of insert tools.
This job i am running an 80* "CCGX style positive insert graded (un-coated) for aluminum....

Size of the cutter was set using a stand alone tool setter "Walter" that has optical/DRO gauging for both the diameter and length .....

More to follow.
Cheers Ross

ffp1 activ 1983

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I need help with this one
The inboard end of my FP1 cross slide bellows has come detached.Not sure how this can be re attached, can anyone please assist with this?

Deckel FP1 Riser Owners?

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I'm seeking out those of you who own a Deckel FP1 Riser, ESPECIALLY if you are in the San Francisco bay area, but even if you are elsewhere in the world. This is part of my very preliminary efforts to possibly manufacture some of these rare beasts...in need of getting access to one of these for reverse engineering purposes.

Please identify yourself :)

FPI apron getting too tight?

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What’s the problem here guys- the X feed screw on table has been getting more draggy.
The mill has been running fine now it seems like a gib is too tight.
That lock on the apron does not seem to do much right now either and it used to lock up firm..

Ideals?

Thanks all

Deckel FP1 broken shear pin. How to refit?

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This Deckel is new to me and I would appreciate any help you might be able to offer me.
As the title suggests I need to replace the shear pin on my FP1. It is the older model with levers rather than dial for the gearchange.
I have searched this forum and have read as much as I can but I am still a little confused as to how to the pin and the spring clip should be fitted.. If I understand other posts correctly, the spring clip is held in with a rivet and covers the top of the shear pin, holding the shear pin in place. However on my machine, the shear pin seems to be holding the clip in place. The shear pin seems to fit through a hole in the spring clip holding in place. The spring clip itself seems to be broken. I also found a very small pin/rivet at the broken end of the spring clip. Not sure where this went but I assume it was to hold down the end of the spring. I feel that the arrangement on mine is incorrect.

I attach a photo of what I found and also a rough diagram of what I understand the arrangement on my machine is.
I would be grateful for any help getting this sorted. I have ordered the correct shear pins, spring clip and rivet from Franz Singer on Ebay.
Thanks for reading
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Deckel fp1 Aktiv - missing feed

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today i started my "new" fp1 aktiv up, but can't get the feed to work.
and when i push the buttons and the stick there are not light in the button's either for the feed.
the heidenhain dro works.

Alexander master toolmaker history?

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Hello

I have opportunity to purchase Alexander master tool maker (GHA) for $1000, that is very similiar to Deckel FP1. anyone know about alexander history ? i mean how can they make really identical machine, do they make it under license from Deckel or what?

I go to tony website , lathes.co.uk and found that the old early deckel mill 1920 is supplied by Alexander? Deckel FP1 1920s Photo Essay


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Milling Machine, Hispano Suiza

Alexander Toolmaster with dividing head at G&M UK

3 ball crank handle on older FP1

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I am de-rusting an older FP1. The nice 3ball handles have crank handles that spin. It appears that those handles ride in a bushing that is either pressed into the 3 ball handle or threaded in. Does anybody know how I can remove it so that I can clean up the handle and crank and polish them on the lathe before reassembly? It's always so simple when you know how it comes apart, vs trying the wrong thing and doing damage.

Heidenhain Linear Encoders problem

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Good day to all.
i'm new to this forum and i'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this question.
the question is:
i've adapted 2 linear encoders to a lathe in my work place, the encoder are Heidenhain LS803, one with 1520mm and another with 720mm.
the one with 1520mm had the light bulb busted, so i replaced with one similar, but now i don't have accurate or real measurement.
is it possible that the new light bulb is making this??
can, please, anyone help?
sorry for my english, but i'm from portugal.
thank you all.

Second Hand wheel on X-axis Abene

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Hi All,

I have an Abene VHF3 mill with only 1 hand wheel for the X-axis, and worse, it's on the left side.
I hoped it would have some kind of preparation on the spindle for an second hand wheel on the right side but sadly there is no extra length on the spindle there.

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Did anyone here made an second hand wheel for an Abene?
Turning the spindle around so I have the wheel on the right is also not preferred because the on/off switch and speed-control is on the left side.

Tjeerd
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Deckel FP3 No manual up/down

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We bought a nice Deckel FP3 in the North of France in December last year
It took a while to get it here but when it arrived we were very pleased with it at first
It was one of the later ones with only a single motor Identical like on the active FP3
Typicly the Z handwheel on these is not at a angle but vertical



While cleaning we noticed the Z axe did not move up or down manualy WTH
The powerfeeds and rapids did work though
So we took of the casting directly behind the handwheel



Nothing wrong there When we turned the little wheel further up the geartrain the saddle did not lower or rise



Well Things got worse We had to remove the saddle from the main body
Got the scales on the Y removeded Also the trip dogs and the scrapers on the Y and Z Then turned the Y all the way back Spindle out of the nut and a bit more by hand
Turned the angle head 90 dgr and slide it all back
Then loosened the back gibs a bit and removed the tapered gib
The bolts that held the Z-axe spindle nut were removed (That works better as turning the saddle all up out of the nut of the feed spindle )
Here you see it lifted up



We removed the cover and there it was
The shaft holding the bevel gear broke off :angry:





On the drawing its shaft 2201-2220



We see if we can get that shaft out tomorrow
Anybody done that before ??

What model abene mill?

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Sorry about the bad pictures I haven’t seen the mill in person. Had this over in the antique forum, but this might be the better place. Is it an abene and what model? Thanks
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Needed Deckel FP1 Riser Inside Photos

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I've got a good handle on the outer dimensions, and general layout of the FP1 Riser, but hoping someone that owns one of these could provide some detailed photos of the INSIDE of the Riser. In particular, interested in layout of the shafts, gears, bushings, washers, etc for both the bottom and the top shafts.

Multiple photos from various angles would be ideal !!
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