I need to do some machining work on the underside of the table from a cylindrical grinder (mounting an encoder spar) and want to use my 1960s Deckel FP2 for this. But the part is heavy and I am concerned that it might overload Z or even tip over the mill (which is not bolted down). I am sure that I have seen maximum workpiece weights for the machine listed somewhere but can't find those. Does anyone here have that information? This would go on top of the large fixed horizontal table which weighs about 50kg.
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Maximum workpiece weight for a 1960s Deckel FP2 ?
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Cutting an inside dovetail oil groove on a manual Deckel FP2
Hi All,
I haven't posted much work here recently, thought I would show my FP2 in action. This makes good use of a cool 3-axis vise that came with my machine:
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The problem is to cut an oil groove on an inside dovetail. This is the auxiliary swiveling cross slide of my Studer cylindrical grinder, it's about 480mm (19") long and the groove is about 250mm (10") long. The pros like Peter do it with a hand grinder in 15 minutes. But I lack the experience and confidence so did it with the mill.
The tool is a 4mm HSS ball cutter stuck into a long extension holder.
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Here is clocking in the vise to hold the part so that the path I need to cut runs parallel to X.
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Here is the long cut partway completed:
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The groove is shaped like a Z, and the short legs of the Z do not run parallel to any of the axes. So to cut these I needed to advance Y and Z together. I did this by interpolating in 20 steps, using a spreadsheet to get my coordinates.
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Here is the finished groove:
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Just in case anyone is wondering, the other side of the dovetail has a tapered gib, so that was easier. I clamped it to an aluminium "lifting table" which I could tilt along one axis (you can see the shim sticking out on the left). Here is that oil groove:
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Cheers,
Bruce
I haven't posted much work here recently, thought I would show my FP2 in action. This makes good use of a cool 3-axis vise that came with my machine:
The problem is to cut an oil groove on an inside dovetail. This is the auxiliary swiveling cross slide of my Studer cylindrical grinder, it's about 480mm (19") long and the groove is about 250mm (10") long. The pros like Peter do it with a hand grinder in 15 minutes. But I lack the experience and confidence so did it with the mill.
The tool is a 4mm HSS ball cutter stuck into a long extension holder.
Here is clocking in the vise to hold the part so that the path I need to cut runs parallel to X.
Here is the long cut partway completed:
The groove is shaped like a Z, and the short legs of the Z do not run parallel to any of the axes. So to cut these I needed to advance Y and Z together. I did this by interpolating in 20 steps, using a spreadsheet to get my coordinates.
Here is the finished groove:
Just in case anyone is wondering, the other side of the dovetail has a tapered gib, so that was easier. I clamped it to an aluminium "lifting table" which I could tilt along one axis (you can see the shim sticking out on the left). Here is that oil groove:
Cheers,
Bruce
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Maho MH800
Anyone know or have a good knowledge of what gearbox oil you would use in a MH800 manual machine? We had to disassemble to fix a shifting issue and we have no manuals at all. Thanks in Advance.
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Hi Milacron. Your message box is full. Please make some space, so we can send...
Hi Milacron.
I tried to send you a message, but didn't succeed.
It's a bit important, so I hope you'll make some space.
Please delete this message afterwards.
Cheers
Erik
I tried to send you a message, but didn't succeed.
It's a bit important, so I hope you'll make some space.
Please delete this message afterwards.
Cheers
Erik
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Is this a Heidenhain DRO ? (photo)
The scales are Heidenhain but never seen this model display from Heidenhain before.
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Opened up the back of the cabinet and no manuf tag anywhere on it. Curiously it has DB15 axis connectors but their gender is backwards from current models.
Opened up the back of the cabinet and no manuf tag anywhere on it. Curiously it has DB15 axis connectors but their gender is backwards from current models.
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Interesting new model Heidenhain DRO news...
1. ND780 and Positip 880 discontinued.... ATech Authority is out.. all gone from them and Heidenhain...no more can be ordered.
2. The new ND7013 to replace the ND780 is great...but $1,927 !!! They have yet to sell the first one due to the high price.
3. The replacement for the Positip is not quite ready to ship but when it is, will be aprox $3,800 :willy_nilly:
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But fear not....ATech will soon have an adapter box ($115) that will allow Heidenhain scales to work with the AcuRite DRO203 ($895)
https://www.heidenhain.de/fileadmin/...x_f_de_web.jpg
http://jmssupply.com/wp-content/uplo...te_dro_300.png
2. The new ND7013 to replace the ND780 is great...but $1,927 !!! They have yet to sell the first one due to the high price.
3. The replacement for the Positip is not quite ready to ship but when it is, will be aprox $3,800 :willy_nilly:
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But fear not....ATech will soon have an adapter box ($115) that will allow Heidenhain scales to work with the AcuRite DRO203 ($895)
https://www.heidenhain.de/fileadmin/...x_f_de_web.jpg
http://jmssupply.com/wp-content/uplo...te_dro_300.png
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Aciera F4 sn 25588 update
Over the past couple of months I have been picking away at the basket case mill I acquired.
I have assessed the damage caused by the previous lack of TLC it has recieved, and despite that it is in remarkably good condition.
The biggest repair will be the replacement of the crossfeed screw and nut. The original is 24mm x 5 tpi rh acme, or maybe trapazoidal.
This is un-obtainium!
I have obtained a piece of 7/8x5 rh acme and will graft it into the existing shaft. The new nut will need some minor mods to fit the mounting, but that is fairly simple.
I have spent a fair amount of time cleaning and measuring the cross slide ways.
These are the only ones that have seen much damage. (thankfully) there is at most .0015 wear on each slideway, with the scoring from improper lubrication covering about 20% of the area. Some of it is deep (.010") some not very (<.005").
It looks to me that if I scrape the slide, ignoring the scoring, I will end up with some nice "oil pockets"
The best news today was that I powered up the electrical system and except for the coolant pump which is not installed, the system works, and none of the gearboxes makes any funny noises!
Peter
I have assessed the damage caused by the previous lack of TLC it has recieved, and despite that it is in remarkably good condition.
The biggest repair will be the replacement of the crossfeed screw and nut. The original is 24mm x 5 tpi rh acme, or maybe trapazoidal.
This is un-obtainium!
I have obtained a piece of 7/8x5 rh acme and will graft it into the existing shaft. The new nut will need some minor mods to fit the mounting, but that is fairly simple.
I have spent a fair amount of time cleaning and measuring the cross slide ways.
These are the only ones that have seen much damage. (thankfully) there is at most .0015 wear on each slideway, with the scoring from improper lubrication covering about 20% of the area. Some of it is deep (.010") some not very (<.005").
It looks to me that if I scrape the slide, ignoring the scoring, I will end up with some nice "oil pockets"
The best news today was that I powered up the electrical system and except for the coolant pump which is not installed, the system works, and none of the gearboxes makes any funny noises!
Peter
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Dialog 4 Error Code 14
I've found an issue with my Z axis. (After fifteen years!)
It appears we don't have all the 450mm of Z-Axis travel. I noticed the limit switch cam plate looked different than the others, and in fact someone has made a slightly longer version to stop the Z-axis using the last 79mm of travel.
When I remove it, the error message 'Code 14' appears, indicating a problem with the LS904 scale.
Since this area of travel is very rarely used on the machine, it has therefor never been noticed. But, I now have a job where I need all of the 450mm.
I have had the scale professionally examined, and other than a weak reading from the scale 'head' there are no serious issues revealing themselves. I have been informed that the issue he found with the 'head' would if anything stop the scale working completely, but not in the specific area we have the issue.
I can have the scale head refurbished, but this still may not cure the 'black spot' area.
Any ideas?
It appears we don't have all the 450mm of Z-Axis travel. I noticed the limit switch cam plate looked different than the others, and in fact someone has made a slightly longer version to stop the Z-axis using the last 79mm of travel.
When I remove it, the error message 'Code 14' appears, indicating a problem with the LS904 scale.
Since this area of travel is very rarely used on the machine, it has therefor never been noticed. But, I now have a job where I need all of the 450mm.
I have had the scale professionally examined, and other than a weak reading from the scale 'head' there are no serious issues revealing themselves. I have been informed that the issue he found with the 'head' would if anything stop the scale working completely, but not in the specific area we have the issue.
I can have the scale head refurbished, but this still may not cure the 'black spot' area.
Any ideas?
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Dialog 4 keyboard decals
This may have been covered before.
I require a character set of keyboard decals for the Dialog 4 keypad.
Other than replacing the keypad, are decals (or stickers) available?
I require a character set of keyboard decals for the Dialog 4 keypad.
Other than replacing the keypad, are decals (or stickers) available?
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FP1 New to Me
Hi all,
I recently (yesterday) purchased a lever type FP1 and am in the process of cleaning it up to get it running again. It is fairly dirty and gummy, but otherwise seems to be in good shape. What oil you guys use in the sumps? The manual calls for "Bearing Oil, 4.5 deg. Engler @ 120F" Never heard of that one...
Also, is there an exploded parts view for the FP1s? Would be good to make sure everything is where it belongs.
Thanks!
Bob
I recently (yesterday) purchased a lever type FP1 and am in the process of cleaning it up to get it running again. It is fairly dirty and gummy, but otherwise seems to be in good shape. What oil you guys use in the sumps? The manual calls for "Bearing Oil, 4.5 deg. Engler @ 120F" Never heard of that one...
Also, is there an exploded parts view for the FP1s? Would be good to make sure everything is where it belongs.
Thanks!
Bob
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New (to me) Fp1
Hi All,
Just acquired a lever style FP1. The machine appears to be in relatively good shape, but grimy and sticky from sitting for an extended period. I am in the process of cleaning it up to get it running and had a couple of questions:
1) What oil do you use for gearbox sumps?
3) Looking for VFD recommendations ( It has a Siemens 220V 60hz 2 speed motor and the giant control box which I havent opened yet).
Thanks!
Bob
Just acquired a lever style FP1. The machine appears to be in relatively good shape, but grimy and sticky from sitting for an extended period. I am in the process of cleaning it up to get it running and had a couple of questions:
1) What oil do you use for gearbox sumps?
3) Looking for VFD recommendations ( It has a Siemens 220V 60hz 2 speed motor and the giant control box which I havent opened yet).
Thanks!
Bob
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Pp update for tnc426
Dear experts i have a issue with my post processor .. every time i have to put this value in my gcode file.. please check attachment..i desperately need avoid this editing.. please help me
Regards
Fsa
Regards
Fsa
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Maho MH600
Hello!
I am new here, I purchased an early maho MH 600 recently.
It was covered in slight rust and it was all dirty, I am slowly cleaning it up.
What I noticed and confused me was that the lubrication "map" says oil almost everyhere but I have funky looking grease fittings all over it. To the horizontal spindle bearings and even to the ways.
do you think those fittings are original? they are authentic looks to be original.
ehat do you think?
Maho – jenco – album na Rajčeti
I will add close ups of the grease fittings to the gallery.
I am new here, I purchased an early maho MH 600 recently.
It was covered in slight rust and it was all dirty, I am slowly cleaning it up.
What I noticed and confused me was that the lubrication "map" says oil almost everyhere but I have funky looking grease fittings all over it. To the horizontal spindle bearings and even to the ways.
do you think those fittings are original? they are authentic looks to be original.
ehat do you think?
Maho – jenco – album na Rajčeti
I will add close ups of the grease fittings to the gallery.
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Correa F3UA Universal
I picked up a Correa F3UA #50 taper universal mill today. Everything works, all the parts are there, and seems very little used. Anyone own a manual Correa? Does the factory respond to peons asking about their older machines? What Im looking for is a manual so I can do the basic maintenance. Thx
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Deckel FP2 Base Dimensions, Making Skid Platform
Hi everyone. I just put a deposit down on a second generation FP2 (single dials and motor mounted on the outside). I will not take possession of it until the end of the month. I plan on making a semi permanent skid for it so I can move around if needed. I dont have any manuals for it yet. Can anyone tell me what the base dimensions are? I am going to construct a skid as close to the base dimensions, allowing a hand pallet truck to be used to move it.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
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New Bridge Crane
Just installed new bridge crane to be used for moving Deckel mill and Weiler lathe accessories around. This room is very limited, 7.5ft ceilings, and overall room only 9.5ft by 17.5ft. I decided to embed the end support posts for the bridge crane in the walls so not to lose floor space. The bridge crane is also innovative in that the beam rides on top of the runway with only 1" clearance from the ceiling, and the beam is set within the vertical space of the runways to keep it as high as possible. The crane can move heavy stuff anywhere within the room.
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The room still being remodelled, mill and lathe expected later this year.
The room still being remodelled, mill and lathe expected later this year.
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Deckel fp1 drive sprockets.
Hi everyone,
My friend bought little fp1 mill from circa 1960-1970 and he wants to do a restoration .One thing that machine is missing are the drive sprockets at the back (there is only one at the top shaft), we were searching the internet and only found that there is a 49 tooth one and not much luck for the rest. We know the chain pitch and lenght (it's in manual) . Could someone help with this ? Any help would be appriciated.
My friend bought little fp1 mill from circa 1960-1970 and he wants to do a restoration .One thing that machine is missing are the drive sprockets at the back (there is only one at the top shaft), we were searching the internet and only found that there is a 49 tooth one and not much luck for the rest. We know the chain pitch and lenght (it's in manual) . Could someone help with this ? Any help would be appriciated.
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Deckel FP2 # 6770 No oil X-axis lower sliding surface
Deckel FP2 number 6770 (with 2 grease nipples on the left side)
I have been looking but have not been able to find anything that describes how (which way) oil comes to the x-axis's lower sliding surfaces.
After the machine has been disassembled, cleaned and wedges have been scraped, it has been put together - but despite an endless pumping with the oil pump, no oil comes from the duct at the X-axis lower sliding surface - oil comes OK from all other places.
Have again dismantled the saddle to investigate why no oil comes. Opened the cover for the drive clutch and notes that the oil channel seems to open out here but no chance to see how or where. If you blow carefully with compressed air in the oil duct, you clearly hear that it opens here - but how should the oil actually get where it should?
Hope there is someone who knows - I'd rather not have to dismantle all gears and clutches just to investigate where the oil channel comes.
Really do not know anything about the machine - bought used a few years ago but I have not used it - stated to be in good condition - but quite the opposite. Has clear traces of previous renovation.
Saij
I have been looking but have not been able to find anything that describes how (which way) oil comes to the x-axis's lower sliding surfaces.
After the machine has been disassembled, cleaned and wedges have been scraped, it has been put together - but despite an endless pumping with the oil pump, no oil comes from the duct at the X-axis lower sliding surface - oil comes OK from all other places.
Have again dismantled the saddle to investigate why no oil comes. Opened the cover for the drive clutch and notes that the oil channel seems to open out here but no chance to see how or where. If you blow carefully with compressed air in the oil duct, you clearly hear that it opens here - but how should the oil actually get where it should?
Hope there is someone who knows - I'd rather not have to dismantle all gears and clutches just to investigate where the oil channel comes.
Really do not know anything about the machine - bought used a few years ago but I have not used it - stated to be in good condition - but quite the opposite. Has clear traces of previous renovation.
Saij
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FP1 electrical box re-cabling
When I first got my FP1, I had one hell of a time unloading it from a trailer with a good part of the difficulty coming from the fact that the electrical box was connected to the mill via two non-disconnectable cable conduits. Indeed, it was possible to disconnect the wires from the terminal block inside but I endeavored to muscle the two pieces around without doing that. This mill is 1967ish and throughout its life the conduit was stretched and the internal wires were showing through very clearly. I vowed that sometime during my ownership of the mill that I would devise a way to decouple this box to make transport easier. Well, after several weeks of slow-roll assembling parts, I finally embarked on this task and it’s coming together nicely albeit not done. The smoke test is soon but I thought I’d share the mechanics (or electrics) with y’all.
The connectors are high quality DMS plugs and sockets, Wiring came from cannibalizing some 12-3 and 12-4 SJ cable (a lot of same and unconventional wire colors but all are marked and labeled and recorded). Cable sheathing is just some expandable audio cable sheathing I got from Amazon. The four red wires from the mill body were cut and butt-spliced to new wires ending in the new 4-pin plug. The motor wiring was straightforward and that cable ended in a 7-pin plug. Now I can transport the damn thing without dragging an electrical box "pig" along with it. I know some folks have adapted a VFD to their machines but I wanted to keep this electrical box around; as dirty as it is.
I also used the original conduit "ends" even though they are sized and threaded to an old standard. The flexibility of the sheathing I used enabled that. The old conduit had a nominal amount of stretch resistance and my new sheathing has none but I intend to unplug the cables to avoid any stretching and wire stress.
(sorry if these pictures come out too small - I don't know the trick to make them bigger.
Cheers,
Rich
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The connectors are high quality DMS plugs and sockets, Wiring came from cannibalizing some 12-3 and 12-4 SJ cable (a lot of same and unconventional wire colors but all are marked and labeled and recorded). Cable sheathing is just some expandable audio cable sheathing I got from Amazon. The four red wires from the mill body were cut and butt-spliced to new wires ending in the new 4-pin plug. The motor wiring was straightforward and that cable ended in a 7-pin plug. Now I can transport the damn thing without dragging an electrical box "pig" along with it. I know some folks have adapted a VFD to their machines but I wanted to keep this electrical box around; as dirty as it is.
I also used the original conduit "ends" even though they are sized and threaded to an old standard. The flexibility of the sheathing I used enabled that. The old conduit had a nominal amount of stretch resistance and my new sheathing has none but I intend to unplug the cables to avoid any stretching and wire stress.
(sorry if these pictures come out too small - I don't know the trick to make them bigger.
Cheers,
Rich
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Deckel Slotting Head Identification??
Hi folk
I have the chance to purchase a Deckel Slotting head ...
However I have never seen one in the flesh and only know there is a difference between the FP1 version and the FP2 version gear wise.
Can anyone please point out any "OBVIOUS" tell tail signs between the two versions.
There does not appear to be any information plate on the head other than the height / speed rate one.
All comments gratefully received.
MTIA
John :typing:
I have the chance to purchase a Deckel Slotting head ...
However I have never seen one in the flesh and only know there is a difference between the FP1 version and the FP2 version gear wise.
Can anyone please point out any "OBVIOUS" tell tail signs between the two versions.
There does not appear to be any information plate on the head other than the height / speed rate one.
All comments gratefully received.
MTIA
John :typing:
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