Seller is dealer with broker handling most paperwork but apparently I have to file the ISF info... or should I pay customs broker to do that ? FWIW, while I've exported machines to places as distant as Australia and Turkey, it's been decades since I've imported a machine involving a container.
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Importing mill from Europe to USA.... broker needed or DIY ?
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Narex boring head - quick adjust jammed?
Hi,
Hoping this is the right location to solicit opinions since you all are likely using this or similar heads.
I have a Narex VHU, its in perfect condition but after sitting for a few months the rapid adjustment screw has become jammed. The head works entirely normally otherwise. Im at a loss for what is causing this issue.
Danke.
Hoping this is the right location to solicit opinions since you all are likely using this or similar heads.
I have a Narex VHU, its in perfect condition but after sitting for a few months the rapid adjustment screw has become jammed. The head works entirely normally otherwise. Im at a loss for what is causing this issue.
Danke.
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FP2 headstock (horizontal spindle ram) questions
I've got the headstock (horizontal spindle ram) off my 1964 FP2 in order to paint it. First time it's been off the machine in 6 or 7 years. I've got a couple of questions:
- Should I paint the end around the spindle nose (photo below)? Or remove the paint and leave it blank (or scrape it for appearance)? Point is that I often stick a magnetic indicator base there.
![]()
- I'm going to replace the two 6010 (50 x 80 x 16mm) bearings that hold this gear. Should I do anything to the shaft to remove the marking from pushing the bearings out? For example spin it in the lathe with a bit of emery paper and oil? Or will that remove too much material?
![]()
- Once I have the Y-axis locking hardware off, I would like to pressure wash the casting with detergent before painting it. But am slightly concerned about getting water/detergent into the region around the spindle locking ring (which I have not removed, visible in the first photo above). Is my concern misplaced? I suppose I could grind a plug to the same diameter as the horizontal spindle and insert it there during the wash, if needed.
Cheers,
Bruce
- Should I paint the end around the spindle nose (photo below)? Or remove the paint and leave it blank (or scrape it for appearance)? Point is that I often stick a magnetic indicator base there.
- I'm going to replace the two 6010 (50 x 80 x 16mm) bearings that hold this gear. Should I do anything to the shaft to remove the marking from pushing the bearings out? For example spin it in the lathe with a bit of emery paper and oil? Or will that remove too much material?
- Once I have the Y-axis locking hardware off, I would like to pressure wash the casting with detergent before painting it. But am slightly concerned about getting water/detergent into the region around the spindle locking ring (which I have not removed, visible in the first photo above). Is my concern misplaced? I suppose I could grind a plug to the same diameter as the horizontal spindle and insert it there during the wash, if needed.
Cheers,
Bruce
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Deckel FP1 Grease Removal
Having acquired an FP1 serial # 37187 I find all the slideways and hence the plumbing have at some point been lubricated / filled with grease, how best to remove / clean this considering the small passageways. According to info available the carriage way is the same as fitted to the dial model FP1, there is no access from the top of the vertical slide to the oil gallery area. Thanks for any pointers. Alan.
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Help with replacing screen on Deckel FP5CC (Dialog 11) with LCD screen
Greetings,
we have an old Deckel FP5CC CNC machine and because it's really simple to use, we use it quite a lot, but we have a lot of electrical problems, this time with the dialog 11 screen. The screen won't turn on when we switch the machine on, everything else works, so we are thinking to replace this old screen with a normal LCD screen. I have seen on this forum that some people have already done this but I didn't find any information how to connect machines 25 pin connector to the standard VGA LCD screen connector.
So I if anybody know or have schematics how to connect this 25 pin connector to standard screen connector I would really appreciate that information. :)
Thankyou for you answers :)
Martin
we have an old Deckel FP5CC CNC machine and because it's really simple to use, we use it quite a lot, but we have a lot of electrical problems, this time with the dialog 11 screen. The screen won't turn on when we switch the machine on, everything else works, so we are thinking to replace this old screen with a normal LCD screen. I have seen on this forum that some people have already done this but I didn't find any information how to connect machines 25 pin connector to the standard VGA LCD screen connector.
So I if anybody know or have schematics how to connect this 25 pin connector to standard screen connector I would really appreciate that information. :)
Thankyou for you answers :)
Martin
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Deckel indexing head and universal table
Found this locally, from the same seller. Distance for fixing to the machine seems to be 9cm (as on FP1).
Are these Deckel accessories or maybe from some other "Deckel clone" machine?
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Any help appreciated ...
Are these Deckel accessories or maybe from some other "Deckel clone" machine?
Any help appreciated ...
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What to do with a Deckel FP2 electrical cabinet
Hey y'all,
I got the original electrical cabinet with my Deckel FP2. Originally I'd planned to reuse it and add a VFD, but in the end I wired up a new, much smaller cabinet for the VFD.
This begs the question what to do with the old cabinet. It has all the original connectors and machinery for what I believe is a centering microscope and e.g. the high-speed spindle.
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?
Siggi
I got the original electrical cabinet with my Deckel FP2. Originally I'd planned to reuse it and add a VFD, but in the end I wired up a new, much smaller cabinet for the VFD.
This begs the question what to do with the old cabinet. It has all the original connectors and machinery for what I believe is a centering microscope and e.g. the high-speed spindle.
Does anyone here have any use for any of this stuff
?Siggi
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Maho 600-C Documentation
Hi all,
Can user manual, maintenance manual, and or electrical schematics
be obtained for the 1980's Maho 600-C?
Paul
Can user manual, maintenance manual, and or electrical schematics
be obtained for the 1980's Maho 600-C?
Paul
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Maho MH500M schematics
Hi guys!
Not sure if this is the right section to ask, since our Maho 500M isn't exactly manual... But not quite CNC either :)
It features a Maho 134 "CNC" controller that can't do interpolation or any real contouring save for straight line movement. It is actually more useful than you'd think - for sort of automating tasks like facing, hole patterns etc. Which was probably great for simple batch work with repeatabilty in mind.
Long story short, we bought one for the purpose of retrofitting to what we call CNC nowadays - multi axis simultanious movement. It's a fine machine, Controls have analogue DC servos and ballscrews on all three axis, and some of the more precise Haidenhain linear scales of its era. It's basically CNC-ready. There was also a full-on CNC version of it too - Called the MH500W
Before we start ripping the thing apart, I have to ask if anyone has any documentaion on this machine, mainly electrical schematics. The machine works perfectly and I want some means of putting it back together if anything goes wrong (plus, I don't want to tug or measure electrical continuity to find out which cable goes where in the first place).
- Electrical schematics - these are the most urgent.
- User manual - we got that from the previous owner. It's in German though, not really my strong point. If anybody has an english version, please respond, otherwise we'll do with google translate
- 134 CNC controller manual - supposedly a seperate manual which we don't have. Not really urgent since it's a simple controller and will probably be ebayed off after the retrofit.
Thanks!
Not sure if this is the right section to ask, since our Maho 500M isn't exactly manual... But not quite CNC either :)
It features a Maho 134 "CNC" controller that can't do interpolation or any real contouring save for straight line movement. It is actually more useful than you'd think - for sort of automating tasks like facing, hole patterns etc. Which was probably great for simple batch work with repeatabilty in mind.
Long story short, we bought one for the purpose of retrofitting to what we call CNC nowadays - multi axis simultanious movement. It's a fine machine, Controls have analogue DC servos and ballscrews on all three axis, and some of the more precise Haidenhain linear scales of its era. It's basically CNC-ready. There was also a full-on CNC version of it too - Called the MH500W
Before we start ripping the thing apart, I have to ask if anyone has any documentaion on this machine, mainly electrical schematics. The machine works perfectly and I want some means of putting it back together if anything goes wrong (plus, I don't want to tug or measure electrical continuity to find out which cable goes where in the first place).
- Electrical schematics - these are the most urgent.
- User manual - we got that from the previous owner. It's in German though, not really my strong point. If anybody has an english version, please respond, otherwise we'll do with google translate
- 134 CNC controller manual - supposedly a seperate manual which we don't have. Not really urgent since it's a simple controller and will probably be ebayed off after the retrofit.
Thanks!
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What are these deckel fp2 parts?
Hi. Could someone help me identify where these two parts go? Have a deckel fp2 that has been in parts for some time and I can't remember where these go. The round bushing was in a bag marked with x axis, but I can't figure where it was located? The other one I can't remember either. :confused:
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Jig/Tooling Plate on Deckel?
Was wondering if anyone has setup a jig/tooling plate on their Deckel as alternative to the traditional Deckel tables. It occurred to me that such a jig plate could be mounted vertically on the mounting face of the Deckel and would allow much larger work pieces than the tables might allow. Any thoughts?
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Another DRO install
I have a Berco AB 320 at the shop. Dedicated connecting rod machine made in Italy , so i guess its allowed here.
At any rate this machine is used for boring either the big or small ends of connecting rods.
We do lots of white metal bearing work here owing to the age of the engines we work on.
Here is the machine...fairly simple, having a spindle and movable Z axis carrying a vertical slide that carries the rod.
![]()
One of the chores in finishing a connecting rod big end is finishing the width of the bearing faces to get the proper side clearance on the crank journal.
For years i have done this work using an indicator and magnetic base to gauge the actual travel of the slide and thus the material removed from the bearing faces.
This method worked, but was not the most reliable and it was time consuming.
Figured that perhaps there was a better way, and i remembered that i had acquired a single axis DRO on a little Myford grinder that i purchased years back.
When i rebuilt the grinder , i did not reinstall the DRO as it seemed unnecessary (was setup on the grinder Z axis.
At any rate i dug out the readout, blew the dust off and connected it to the wall power.....Cool. it works!
Not a new item, a bit shop worn and worst of all it had a membrane key pad on the box...my least favorite entry setup.
Decided to fit the repurposed box and scale to the Berco to read the position of the long slide.
I wanted to mount the scale on the opposite side of the machine from the controls, too much stuff in the way over there.
Problem was that the base was an unfinished casting where the sides sloped (draft)
Fortunately, i have a milling machine, so with a bit of work, removed the head stock, drive motor and electrics, vertical slide and separated the machine from its cabinet/base.
Next stop: Deckel FP4NC......
![]()
Base was shimmed and clamped to align the slide (Z) with the mill both horizontal and cross leveled....
The cross slide of the rod machine was fitted with an accessory mounting casting for gauging wrist pin boring, and that casting was going to be the mounting for scale read head bracket....
In the above shot i am milling the under side of that casting to create a flat surface using an end mill. I did not cut the full width of that casting , but rather left a raised island on the inside to act as a reference surface. Note clamps applied to the rod machine slide to hole it stationary while cutting.
The casting was removed for access, and spot faces were milled into the side of the rod machine base. All three spot faces were done by profiling to make flat faces , all done at the same depth and
further drilled and tapped in their centers w/M4 threads.
The spacing correlated to the mounting points for the scale.
![]()
The scale was test fitted using stand off's turned and surface ground to the same dimensions. The alignment was tested using the movement of the slide for vertical and horizontal alignment...
One of the advantages here was since the rod machine was on the mill, i was able to use the Deckel to accurately map the locations of all the critical points needed for fitting the scale and the read head.
![]()
Take note her of the scale. Bit different form most The scale is housed in a two part extrusion. the rear portion carries the glass scale. There is an outside portion that encloses the housing and is removable to allow easy cleaning of the scale...a nice setup IMO.
Note the three screws at each mounting point. The center larger Allen mounts the rear housing to the machine. The smaller screws on each side hold the outer cover in place. It is possible with this
setup to remove the outer covering with its seal without removing the scale from the machine....pretty slick. Further , the outer housing is sealed to the elements with an "O" ring.
![]()
Armed with required mounting dimensions derived from the scale position, i did a bit of design work and came up with a mount to go from the rod machine casting to the read head of the scale....
Then its a matter of some machine work......
More to follow:
Cheers Ross
At any rate this machine is used for boring either the big or small ends of connecting rods.
We do lots of white metal bearing work here owing to the age of the engines we work on.
Here is the machine...fairly simple, having a spindle and movable Z axis carrying a vertical slide that carries the rod.
One of the chores in finishing a connecting rod big end is finishing the width of the bearing faces to get the proper side clearance on the crank journal.
For years i have done this work using an indicator and magnetic base to gauge the actual travel of the slide and thus the material removed from the bearing faces.
This method worked, but was not the most reliable and it was time consuming.
Figured that perhaps there was a better way, and i remembered that i had acquired a single axis DRO on a little Myford grinder that i purchased years back.
When i rebuilt the grinder , i did not reinstall the DRO as it seemed unnecessary (was setup on the grinder Z axis.
At any rate i dug out the readout, blew the dust off and connected it to the wall power.....Cool. it works!
Not a new item, a bit shop worn and worst of all it had a membrane key pad on the box...my least favorite entry setup.
Decided to fit the repurposed box and scale to the Berco to read the position of the long slide.
I wanted to mount the scale on the opposite side of the machine from the controls, too much stuff in the way over there.
Problem was that the base was an unfinished casting where the sides sloped (draft)
Fortunately, i have a milling machine, so with a bit of work, removed the head stock, drive motor and electrics, vertical slide and separated the machine from its cabinet/base.
Next stop: Deckel FP4NC......
Base was shimmed and clamped to align the slide (Z) with the mill both horizontal and cross leveled....
The cross slide of the rod machine was fitted with an accessory mounting casting for gauging wrist pin boring, and that casting was going to be the mounting for scale read head bracket....
In the above shot i am milling the under side of that casting to create a flat surface using an end mill. I did not cut the full width of that casting , but rather left a raised island on the inside to act as a reference surface. Note clamps applied to the rod machine slide to hole it stationary while cutting.
The casting was removed for access, and spot faces were milled into the side of the rod machine base. All three spot faces were done by profiling to make flat faces , all done at the same depth and
further drilled and tapped in their centers w/M4 threads.
The spacing correlated to the mounting points for the scale.
The scale was test fitted using stand off's turned and surface ground to the same dimensions. The alignment was tested using the movement of the slide for vertical and horizontal alignment...
One of the advantages here was since the rod machine was on the mill, i was able to use the Deckel to accurately map the locations of all the critical points needed for fitting the scale and the read head.
Take note her of the scale. Bit different form most The scale is housed in a two part extrusion. the rear portion carries the glass scale. There is an outside portion that encloses the housing and is removable to allow easy cleaning of the scale...a nice setup IMO.
Note the three screws at each mounting point. The center larger Allen mounts the rear housing to the machine. The smaller screws on each side hold the outer cover in place. It is possible with this
setup to remove the outer covering with its seal without removing the scale from the machine....pretty slick. Further , the outer housing is sealed to the elements with an "O" ring.
Armed with required mounting dimensions derived from the scale position, i did a bit of design work and came up with a mount to go from the rod machine casting to the read head of the scale....
Then its a matter of some machine work......
More to follow:
Cheers Ross
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Deckel FP2 from 1964, what's this screw for (near Y slide)?
I'm painting my 1964 FP2. I would like to know, what's this screw for (near the Y axis slide)? I've marked it with a question mark:
![]()
I have a theory, which concerns the bracket I am holding in my hand. This bracket sits just above the door, on the non-operator side. It supports the coolant tube and lies just below the adjustable stops to trip off the Y-feed. My machine has a "factory installed" DRO, and this bracket supports the blocks that hold the read head for the DRO scale. My theory is that this bracket is NOT the standard one for non-DRO machines, and that the standard bracket is supported by three screws, which are M, M and "?" in my photo. Evidence that this is not the standard bracket: it has hammertone paint which matches some of the other DRO hardware, rather than the standard machine hardware.
Can someone with a non-DRO FP2 confirm this? Is the screw in question holding on this bracket, on your machine? In which case, on my machine it has no function, and I'll close it off with a grub screw before painting.
(One reason I ask: on my machine this screw had a bit of teflon tape wound around the threads, suggesting that it is part of an oil passage. But I am unaware of any such passages in that area.)
I have a theory, which concerns the bracket I am holding in my hand. This bracket sits just above the door, on the non-operator side. It supports the coolant tube and lies just below the adjustable stops to trip off the Y-feed. My machine has a "factory installed" DRO, and this bracket supports the blocks that hold the read head for the DRO scale. My theory is that this bracket is NOT the standard one for non-DRO machines, and that the standard bracket is supported by three screws, which are M, M and "?" in my photo. Evidence that this is not the standard bracket: it has hammertone paint which matches some of the other DRO hardware, rather than the standard machine hardware.
Can someone with a non-DRO FP2 confirm this? Is the screw in question holding on this bracket, on your machine? In which case, on my machine it has no function, and I'll close it off with a grub screw before painting.
(One reason I ask: on my machine this screw had a bit of teflon tape wound around the threads, suggesting that it is part of an oil passage. But I am unaware of any such passages in that area.)
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Deckel FP-1 inspection, what to look for?
(Hey all sorry if this is incorrect in some way but I'm new to the forum)
I've been talking with a guy recently about buying an early Deckel FP-1 and since it's so far from me I'll probably have it inspected. Is there any general things to tell the inspector to look for it's my first time buying a machine so all help is appreciated.
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I've been talking with a guy recently about buying an early Deckel FP-1 and since it's so far from me I'll probably have it inspected. Is there any general things to tell the inspector to look for it's my first time buying a machine so all help is appreciated.
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Electrical diagram 6004 004202 for FP3 wanted
I have this 1981 Deckel FP3 with a simple controle for the feedmotor with no Active option
I want to build it back to original A lott of wires need to be checked
I have to get a new Labod drive and also the A2B print
You have different versions for that print it seems And also other several small differences in the diagram
So now I am looking for the correct electical diagram
It says Schaltplan 6004 004202
Anyone has this specific diagram and is wiling to copy it ?
Or at least a 1981 FP3 diagram
Peter
I want to build it back to original A lott of wires need to be checked
I have to get a new Labod drive and also the A2B print
You have different versions for that print it seems And also other several small differences in the diagram
So now I am looking for the correct electical diagram
It says Schaltplan 6004 004202
Anyone has this specific diagram and is wiling to copy it ?
Or at least a 1981 FP3 diagram
Peter
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Thiel Duplex 159 manual
Hi guys. I just bought a 1970 Thiel Duplex 159 mill that didnt have any manual. Does anyone have have a PDF of the manual? Ive found a site that sells hard copies for 65 + 75 GBP, but thats a lot and a PDF would do. Thanks alot!
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Source for FP3 Headstock Cover?
Title says it all. I'm trying to find a source for a cover for ram of my FP3L to protect the gearing while the vertical head is retracted. I've been through Franz Singer's website and haven't found it (although was happy to notice replacement way covers are surprisngly reasonably priced).
Is there somewhere else I should look?
Thanks in advance!
Is there somewhere else I should look?
Thanks in advance!
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FP3 vs FP4MK
Hello
I have been the loving owner of an early motor-in-casting FP2 for a year or so now and love it, but it's a bit small for what I do.
I'm considering an upgrade to a larger model, maybe an FP3 Active or an FP4MK, likely sourced from Germany.
I'm not 100% sure on the main differences between the two and was wondering if anyone had any interesting insight beyond the obvious. What I think I know so far:
FP4MK has 100mm more Y travel
FP4MK has no Y quill
FP4MK has hydraulic tool changer (on both spindles or just vertical?)
FP4MK has more common 2080 tooling
FP4MK is a larger footprint
FP4MK has a larger fixed angular table(?)
FP4MK is (possibly?) quieter running
FP4MK has a cool analogue power meter (possibly the only difference that matters...)
FP4MK typically costs 10% more from a reputable rebuilder
Am I missing anything else?
Are the accessories or heads interchangeable with other models?
Thanks
Milo
I have been the loving owner of an early motor-in-casting FP2 for a year or so now and love it, but it's a bit small for what I do.
I'm considering an upgrade to a larger model, maybe an FP3 Active or an FP4MK, likely sourced from Germany.
I'm not 100% sure on the main differences between the two and was wondering if anyone had any interesting insight beyond the obvious. What I think I know so far:
FP4MK has 100mm more Y travel
FP4MK has no Y quill
FP4MK has hydraulic tool changer (on both spindles or just vertical?)
FP4MK has more common 2080 tooling
FP4MK is a larger footprint
FP4MK has a larger fixed angular table(?)
FP4MK is (possibly?) quieter running
FP4MK has a cool analogue power meter (possibly the only difference that matters...)
FP4MK typically costs 10% more from a reputable rebuilder
Am I missing anything else?
Are the accessories or heads interchangeable with other models?
Thanks
Milo
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Need opinion on removing x axis feed clutch, to replace drive key
I have an early FP-1, (1952) that I damaged, and am now putting back together. Through this forum, I was able to acquire a new x axis screw and nut, and replacement z axis handwheel. Other parts, I brass brazed back together, and fitted.
While removing the damaged leadscrew ( fell off a forklift), I pounded away, to push out the acme nut. I also managed to shear off the locating pin, on the x axis drive key.
I have removed the table again, a small 3mm setscrew, and removed the left-right shift dog. The feed clutch rotates freely. The feed clutch also has the sheared off pin from the keyway. I need to remove it. So far clawing at it, and strong magnets won't remove the pin.
How do I remove the feed clutch? I am afraid to damage the gearing. Do I have to take apart further? Thanks. Scott
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While removing the damaged leadscrew ( fell off a forklift), I pounded away, to push out the acme nut. I also managed to shear off the locating pin, on the x axis drive key.
I have removed the table again, a small 3mm setscrew, and removed the left-right shift dog. The feed clutch rotates freely. The feed clutch also has the sheared off pin from the keyway. I need to remove it. So far clawing at it, and strong magnets won't remove the pin.
How do I remove the feed clutch? I am afraid to damage the gearing. Do I have to take apart further? Thanks. Scott
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Deckel FP2NC X axis run away
Newbie on the FP2NC with Dialog 2 control.
See if you can point me in the right diagnostic direction.
When I start up in mode 5 the X axis moves by itself.
Glass scales on X and Z axis were rebuilt by Heidenheim service.
I have switched the Dialog axis Cards with the Y axis (reconfigured the Switches) - no change
switched both Bosch drive cards with the y axis drivers - no change
swapped the Tach generators between x and y axis - No change.
What else can it be?
wiring?
When it moves it is not rapid movements...slow steady 20 IMP (estimated)
Michael
See if you can point me in the right diagnostic direction.
When I start up in mode 5 the X axis moves by itself.
Glass scales on X and Z axis were rebuilt by Heidenheim service.
I have switched the Dialog axis Cards with the Y axis (reconfigured the Switches) - no change
switched both Bosch drive cards with the y axis drivers - no change
swapped the Tach generators between x and y axis - No change.
What else can it be?
wiring?
When it moves it is not rapid movements...slow steady 20 IMP (estimated)
Michael
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