Maho MH400E in the home shop

September 20, 2020, 3:28 am

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I just uploaded the video sumarising what I did to convert my MAHO MH400E to LinuxCNC.


I know Milicron always recommends against this, but I got lucky as a friend of mine is a professional programmer, and wrote the gearbox.comp to control the gear changing. This is all described in the github wiki...
Home * jin-eld/mh400e-linuxcnc Wiki * GitHub
Mark

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US import duty on used mill made in Switzerland ?

September 21, 2020, 7:10 am

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Customs broker listed it on their invoice at 4.2%... higher than I expected...what say ye ?

Thiel TH150 Bought it back

September 21, 2020, 8:35 am

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In 2011 I sold this beautiful TH150 to a compagnie for their repare shop
The repair shop never got of the ground so it was offered back to me
Really love those TH 150and TH140 machines
Compact, 3axes powerfeed, NT40, Quill
And a real milling machine
This one has the optional hydraulic clamping system

Some pictures









Link to more pictures
Toolroom milling machine Thiel TH150 | Veltman Machines

Enjoy
Peter

Simodrive 210 Drive Tuning Procedure

September 26, 2020, 9:22 am

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Hi all,
I am attempting to tune the Z-axis on the Hermle UWF851 after some work on the Siemens 6RB power supplies. The drive wouldn't enable and started throwing errors. After some troubleshooting, many of the capacitors needed replacing. The drive is now operational but during my troubleshooting I screwed with the tuning (and like an idiot forgot to measure the pots beforehand :wall:) and the Z-axis is now rough when moving the table up.

I've gotten the lag numbers down pretty low (+/-0.0002") at slow speeds but they increase (up to +/-0.010") when I speed up the motor. At this point I can't run the table up at full speed without the control throwing a "Measuring System Defective Z" error. Understandable as the movement is pretty rough. Moving the table down sounds great as the load is significantly less.


Control: TNC 355
Motors: Siemens 1HU DC Brushed Series
Drive: Siemens 210 with 6RB modules (link to manual)
Feedback: Tacho

Adjustment Pots on each axis as labeled in manual (physical location on drive module from top to bottom):
- offset
- tacho-generator
- Kp
- Tn

I'm looking for any info on the tuning process for these drives. It appears as though the TNC 355 commissioning doc wants the offset adjusted first which I will do now. After that, the lag can be adjusted with the tacho-generator pot (completed on all of the other axes successfully). Following those steps I have zero experience with the tuning procedure and looking for guidance.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

cotton wicking for oil, Y-axis ways, Deckel FP2

September 26, 2020, 11:34 am

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I've got the headstock off my FP2, and want to replace the cotton candle wicking that carries oil down to the Y axis ways. The wicking that I have is too small in diameter, so I can pass 2, 3 or 4 strands through the tube.

Does anyone have suggestions about how "tight" the cotton should be in the tube? The idea is that capillary action carries the oil along the cotton, and so it acts like a slow-motion siphon, but I'm worried that if I pack it too tight the viscosity of the oil will prevent it from moving along. Has anyone done some experiments with this?

I'm inclined to use the smallest number of strands that will stay in place (won't just fall though the tube) but am not sure.

How a Millennial disconnects an electrical cabinet

September 27, 2020, 8:37 am

≫ Next: original Deckel collet chuck for universal tables: which collets?

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Reason for disconnect: "I can't work with a green monitor and will just do a simple PC based retrofit. Also I always had an error message."

2 batteries were from 1982, 1 was from 1988 and one of those had leaked over the circuit board.

original Deckel collet chuck for universal tables: which collets?

September 28, 2020, 1:08 am

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The chuck is this one as shown in the Deckel assessory catolog:

Deckel Collet Chuck by Martin Peitz, on Flickr

But it does not say which collet!
Does anyone know? The chuck came with a 50mm collet already inserted.

This particular chuck is brand new and was so gummed up that I had to really unstick it hard.
It is shown here in real life sitting on top of an almost perfect 2037 universal table. It fits into the hole in the center.

Since I have this in duplicate I want to sell both as a set and will put up an ad in the for sale section (sorry scavengers, not cheap).

IMG_1542 by Martin Peitz, on Flickr
IMG_1543 by Martin Peitz, on Flickr

59ED0DEC-BA40-4FF9-8FBA-3A8A8C14D346 by Martin Peitz, on Flickr

Thiel Duplex 159 oil sight glass not working

September 28, 2020, 6:28 am

≫ Next: Replacing gear bearings on Deckel FP2 headstock

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Hi. Ive been doing some lubrication work on my new Thiel 159 duplex that I just bought while Im waiting for the electrician to get me power.

The old oil in the gear boxes were pretty dark, and the main gear box seemed to be empty when I drained it until I put a cable tie up in the drain plug. Then some coagulated oil / particles loosened and "normal" dark oil started flowing out. I waited an hour for it to fully drain before I filled up the specified 4L oil.

On the lower gear box, the oil sight glass works fine, and has a white background. The upper sight glass has a dark background and it doesnt seem like oil is entering on the backside of the glass.

Upper gearbox (main) after 4L new oil:
IMG_20200928_143834 — ImgBB

Lower gearbox after 2L new oil:
IMG-20200928-143846 — ImgBB

Should I try to fix this, or just do the yearly oil change as normal and measure the used oil and new oil. I am doing a oil change after a couple of weeks now, since it has been standing still for so long.

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Replacing gear bearings on Deckel FP2 headstock

September 28, 2020, 12:27 pm

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I am replacing some bearings on my FP2 to reduce the noise levels. I thought I would document the process of installing the two 6010 bearings (50 x 80 x 16mm) that support the big gear behind the horizontal spindle.

Here is the setup:



Bottom left: new bearings sealed in plastic, the bearing "pusher" which is 79.5mm OD, 50.5mm ID, ID runs 55mm deep, overall length about 60mm.

Top right: Inner and outer spacer, rear nut (note that I have added four extra holes, at 60 degree spacings), two heavy bellville washers for preload, and retaining grub screws for outer spacer.

Here is another view of the bearing pusher:



face is machined flat to pull on the inside and outside races equally

Here I am pulling the first bearing into place:





You then insert the spacers, bellville washers, and the second bearing, then pull that into place. Finally add the nut and tighten it.

Here it is with the spindle in place:





Liftoff for the ride back to the mother ship:



I machined a new rear cap from plastic, with two M6 puller holes that are at the correct radius to push on the outer bearing shells.

Elesia -Ganter Euro type hand spoke question

September 29, 2020, 7:05 am

≫ Next: Very very late FP1

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GN 213 Turret levers | Elesa+Ganter

Any idea what the B, V and K mean ? I'm guessing 'bore', 'bore with keyway' and either square or hex.... but even the salesman doesn't know... could have sworn I bought one of these with a hex bore years ago...

Very very late FP1

September 30, 2020, 5:29 am

≫ Next: DMG DMU 50 Evolution machine constants

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Deckel Maho FP1 in Nordrhein-Westfalen - Marsberg | eBay Kleinanzeigen

I find the manufacturer identification in the later pictures interesting.

Advertising a GWF FP1 might be confusing.

DMG DMU 50 Evolution machine constants

October 1, 2020, 10:05 am

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Hello everybody, my name is John and I live in Greece. I have recently purchased a DMG DMU 50 Evolution 2000 built. It is in good mechanical shape and very little used. When I power it up it only showing 3 axis and not the 4 and 5 axis. I believe this is do to machine constants have been wiped out and the controller has now the defaults constants.




I am trying to enter the menu to edit the constants but the controller wont do anything when I press F8 (menu) or Alt. Also the arrows wont work either. I know the keys are working because when I press them it goes out of the black and white screen saver, the controller just ignores them.

I have printed copy of the constants and backup hard disc of Millplus but I don't know where is the plc program, is it in the hard disc or in some chip in the controller. Should I replace the battery insight the controller or I may loose something very important?
Also I can make a copy of hdd or constants ans sent it to anyone need it.

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Ever seen a spindle brake on a Deckel type mill ?

October 2, 2020, 8:38 am

≫ Next: FP1, "Oldest" vertical head type, lubrication

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Not as in stopping the spindle but as in adding resistance during milling. I don't think I have....the Mikron has one. Manual is in German but from what I can tell it apparently is useful if using a cutter that might cause a bit of vibration, like a fly cutter...yes ?

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FP1, "Oldest" vertical head type, lubrication

October 4, 2020, 1:06 am

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Hello,

I have MK1 vertical head with BOTH oil and grease nipples (photos). I've disassembled and cleaned head parts, apart from spindle internals - it looks and rotates OK so I didn't opened it's bearings.

Oldest user manuals I could find are FP1 from 1938 and Alexander from similar age, but they don't specify which grease type to use for "F"?
Also, how the bevel gears are oiled, should I put some grease there?


"The upper anti-friction bearings of the vertical-milling head are lubricated with grease. A high*-pressure grease gun is supplied with the machine, and through nipple F the grease is forced Into the anti-friction bearings. The lubrication must be repeated after 200 working hours.
The lower cutter spindle bearing, which is designed as a slide bearing, is fed with oil through lubricator K. When using the milling head, lubricate according to requirement. Excessive lubrication will result In an intense heating of the bearing.
The bearing of the driving shaft is to be oiled from time to time through oil duct S. For this purpose first remove the screw."





Thanks for helping...

Code to stop spindle on Dialog 4? M05 equivalent

October 4, 2020, 4:48 pm

≫ Next: Removing Z-axis bellows, Deckel FP2

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I'm working on a code generator for my D4. I can't find an equivalent to M05 to stop the spindle in my manual, is there such a thing? S0 isn't good enough, that leaves the machine in neutral.
Am I overlooking something obvious?

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Removing Z-axis bellows, Deckel FP2

October 5, 2020, 3:56 am

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Dear Deckel fans,

many Deckel mills are operated without the Z-axis bellows. One reason is because they reduce the Z-axis travel at the top. I personally don't buy this argument, because I can remove or replace the bellows in a couple of minutes. In case anyone is thinking about this topic, here is the procedure:

(1) Remove plastic holders/Y-axis wipers:



(2) Loosen the upper Z feed-stop, to release the bellows bar:



(3) Unclip bellows at the bottom, and slide off the bellows and sheet metal holder, upwards



(4) Move upper Z feed-stop to higher position (I have location holes drilled for pin, so this takes a few seconds)





(5) Replace the two plastic wiper blocks at the top:



The only tools needed are (a) a flat-bladed screwdriver and (b) a 6mm hex wrench. Total time is about two minutes.

Thanks to Karl for taking the photos!

Cheers,
Bruce

Wohlhaupter UPA3 & UPA4 Removable Shank?

October 6, 2020, 11:23 am

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Does anyone know if the shanks are interchangeable between the UPA3 and UPA4?

If not I will have to source one for the UPA4, unless someone has one available, looking for a straight shank or 40 taper?

Kevin

Error Code 00 & 30 on a Deckel FP2NC with Dialog 4

October 6, 2020, 5:13 am

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Hello All,
I finally ended up winning this machine at an auction, a long time sought after Deckel FP2NC 2801-1369 from 1985, what a beauty😊

But of course, it doesn’t even start at all☹.
The only thing that happens is an error code on the screen appears “ BA 00 30 BA16”
+ fan in console spins and relay no K18 in the big cabinet activates.

This is my first ever CNC machine (I have no experience of CNC at all, but I hope I get) and I have never got it running, by the look of it when I picked it up it wasn’t used for many years (dirty all over). I had the brief chance to chat with the previous owner of the shop (not the operator) and he told me it works but have some problems. He did not know what problems it had.

In accordance with the Dialog “minibook” the error code 30 = Fehler auf NSP 55 = fault in NSP55 board. (Mine has a NSP56 board 256K)
Code 00 = CNC schaltet wegen unterspannung ab. Pufferspeicher in ordnung. = CNC switched due to undervoltage from. Buffer in order. (This is google translate!) Don’t know what this really means?

In the Electrical Cabinet on NPP90 board got these Leds lit F5 +F6 +F7 +F8 meaning CNC hat sich noch nicht gemeldet CNC has not yet responded.

& in the Bosch section, I got all the red ones lit (Treiber, Tacho, Uberspannung & Unterspannung.) Is this indicating errors? Or is it just because the Servos aint powered yet?

On the NPP54 card there is only led D1 lit, D2 and D3 is not lit. (I have read somewhere in this forum that D2 should also be lit, can this be a clue?

Below is what I have done in troubleshooting:
(None of below made any luck in starting the machine.)

All (Fuses F1 to F8 and all the glass fuses on the boards) Fuses have been checked with ohm meter and they are all ok.

I had all boards out from their places and inspected the in detail for evidence of any kind of burns/bad contact etc.
*On all (3) TR15 boards there are resistors that got really hot but they still reads correct resistance.

I have replaced most of the larger Capacitors on the NSV56 and NSV90 boards.

I have measured the Power transducers in the Electrical cabinet:
T1: The 6 volt = 6,3 Volt.
The 12 Volt = 12,2 Volt.
The 10 Volt = 10,5 Volt.
The 220Volt = 234 Volt AC.
T2: 172 Volt AC.
T3: 20,4 Volt AC.

I have repressed/reseated all the Eproms.

I have checked all 3 batteries.
Battery on NSV90 board reads 3,9 volt (this one was bad 1,2 volt during first troubleshoot and is now replaced)
Battery on NSP56 board reads 3,67 volt.
Battery inside/under the console reads 7,5 volt.

I have tried 50 times to reset the control by the Removal of X10 interconnection tape and The power cable to NSV56 board in accordance with instructions found in this forum.

I replaced the optocoupler on NPP90 card.

My question is, do you guys believe in replacing the NSP56 card as the minibook tells me (quite expensive cards) or do you find it likely there is another problem?
If I should by a “new” card does it need to be a 256K or can I use one with more memory?

Is there anyone in Sweden that has a Dialog 4 control who is interested in swapping cards to find the faulty one? Maybe anyone has another fault code and we might find the solution for both machines together?

Machining is my hobby and not for my living so therefore its not in a rush to get this Deckel up and running, I always have my trustworthy manual Deckel FP2.

Best regards
Henrik

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S20x2 to M16 pull stud in drawbar, not in each holder

October 7, 2020, 11:23 am

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Hi Guys!

Just a quick question:
I have a 1967 Deckel Fp2.
For this machine I would like to use Sk40 tool holders. I know there's a stud for this. S20x2:M16 which seems to be commonly used.
But why is everyone buying loads of these studs for each holder? Can't you just use 1 stud in your drawbar, perhaps use some 638 locktite to keep it in place?

Thanks a lot in advance!
Best regards from Holland.
Remy

Painting my FP2

October 8, 2020, 2:36 am

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It's been kind of quiet around here, so I thought I'd post a few recent photos from painting my FP2. The inspiration for this was a visit from Karl, who helped me to change the input bearing on the back of the machine and to do some other minor repairs. Since that required pulling off the sides and back, which in turn requires removal of the DRO and scales, I figured it was a good time to do some more painting.

As a starting point, here is the machine, seven years ago, when I first saw it. The old-timers here know that I've done a lot of repairs and fixes since then, but I've always put off painting, because I hate doing it.



Four years ago, after doing some repairs to it, I painted the long reach vertical head: https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ml#post2769767 . Recently, after some on-line research, I bought a new spray gun for this (Devilbiss FLG5 with a 1.4mm tip) which I am very happy with.

Here is some of the painting work in progress. The goal was to get a finish as close as possible to factory, but with modern (2 component PU) paint. Most surfaces have 3 coats of 2k acrylic primer (wet sanded after the final coat) followed by 3-5 coats of MIPA 200-90 polyurethane, wet sanded 1500/2000/3000 and then polished.











Here is how it now looks. I am still not finished putting everything back together, and am just now in the process of reinstalling the DRO, scales, and cabling. Each scale has soldered connections near the head in a sealed connection box, which connects the head to the cable that goes to the DRO.







Having a tidy paint job does make maintenance more fun. I snapped this photo was I was doing the final adjustment of the two X-axis gibs, before installing the bellows.



The worst part was prepping and painting the base. Biggest mistake was painting the base and support separately. I should have removed the vertical table and then done the base and support at the same time, requiring less masking, less paint mixing, and less gun-cleaning.

I still have some small parts to paint, such as the Y-axis feed stops. But I need to first find some suitable hammertone paint.

I am still putting it back together, using this as an opportunity to do some further little fixes. For example the cover of the X-axis scale (not visible in the photo) was about 0.5mm proud of the vertical table. I've moved the scale and head so that the cover is now 1mm behind the plane of the table. The Y-axis gib lock screw did not work correctly (an internal part was missing). Now it does. I've installed a new bearing behind the bottom bevel gear that drives the vertical power feed shaft into the support. And so on.

With practice, my spraying is getting better -- I can now get a thick finish which is smooth enough that any remaining orange peel or overspray comes off with a few swipes of 1500 or 2000 grit paper.

Cheers,
Bruce